Tuesday, April 18, 2023

Up early and I headed out to get euros from an ATM ($5 service charge). Then burek and croissants from a nearby baker, who I think is a dead ringer for Stephen Root in the movie "Office Space" (picture at bottom).

After breakfast, we went for a waking tour with our Montenegro guide, Petra.  She could have been Yelena's long lost sister.

Petra shared a wealth of knowledge about Kotor, back to the 2nd and 3rd century BC.  Of course, now I can't remember any of this info, other then there were Illerians, Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans, Austro-Hungarians, Germans, all conquering and influencing, perhaps not in that exact order.  She shared lots of info on churches and buildings and clock towers.

Religion is a major Montenegrin theme, but also, so is religious tolerance.  Montenegrins are very proud of coming together at times of trouble, regardless of religious inclination (Orthodox, Roman Catholic, Muslim, etc). In fact, that is their motto (coming together), celebrated every year at carnival (a Roman remnant).

After the walking tour, we lunched at the recommended pizza place (Pronto Pizza).  It was fine, nothing special.  They did NOT take credit cards.

Then we had a shopping adventure, where Paul negotiated a deal on a jacket for Randi, and Yelena negotiated her own deal on a purse. Both deals were on items "originally priced" at $200+. But using the "we only have $140 USD" ploy, they both got the items for $140 USD.  I'm my humble view, the vendor cost was probably only $40 for these items, so they made money and the ladies are happy.  All's well that ends well.

A slogan we noticed walking back.

 

After shopping deals, we rested. I battled a migraine, and then we started the major challenge of the trip. Climbing to the Kotor Fortress!  Kotor is surrounded by defensive walls that go to the top of the nearby mountain, surrounding all approaches to the city.

Instead of paying 8 euros (each) to enter the fortress stairs to ascend to the top from inside the city, we crossed the Scurda and started the climbing trail from north of the Old City.  No fee, as the trail was outside the city walls. We commenced a LOT of switch backs, as we gained elevation.  No one had on proper hiking shoes.  I had on my boat shoes.

But there was no stopping us! Halfway up, my migraine faded.  I sweated it out.

Several hundred feet of rocky trail ensued. It was physically challenging.

Finally, we reached the spot where the "free" trail had a passage back to the wall path. It was via a rickety, nailed together 2x4 ladder, leaning against a hole through the fortress wall.

Yelena was VERY apprehensive about using "The Ladder Of Kotor" but, with encouragement, she did it!

on the other side were expansive reviews of the bay and the city, and MORE steps to get to the top, and Kotor Fortress.

We made it!

At the very top, the fortress ruins are a bit disappointing. Lots of garbage everywhere, but the views are impressive.

The trip back down the "official" path was hard on the knees, but went much quicker.  Actual stairs!

While our shoes were not the best, at least we weren't wearing high heels, like the Japanese tourists we passed (they were giving up) as we descended.

showers, and a change of clothes, were needed when we got back to the Airbnb.

Dinner at a great restaurant called "Santo Scala," where I had a very good cut of beef.  Maybe the best meal I've had on this trip? The ladies enjoyed seafood, the specialty of the restaurant.  Back home for a much deserved rest.

Tomorrow, perhaps a couple of museums and a walk around the city walls.

ps.  Stephen Root, from office space